I've watched Colin Devlin build his Williamsburg restaurant presence ever since he opened Dumont six years ago. From my outsider's view his strategy has been very sound-- know your customers and then grow up with them. Dumont was exactly what Williamsburg was looking for in 2001, and Dressler, opened about a year ago in partnership with Joe Foglia, is a natural for the more adult neighborhood Williamsburg is in the midst of becoming. Dumont's success was based upon a small and thoughtfully executed menu and friendly service in a space that preserved the character of the original neighborhood by highlighting, rather than hiding, the old mosaic tile floors and tin ceiling. Dressler takes that same strategy and elevates it with a larger and more sophisticated menu and wine list in an elegant bistro-like dining room showcasing intricate metal work designed by Robert Ferraroni and Jeff Khan of Ferra Designs.
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photo by tiboutoo
I love Dressler, happily dining there for special occasions when we can't be bothered to cross the river. And while I was very pleased for Colin and his partner when I read that they had been awarded a Michelin star, I was a little surprised. I wasn't convinced they're on the same level as many of the other one star restaurants on the list. I wondered how Michelin could compare Dressler to Annisa or wd~50. A little investigating revealed that comparing the restaurants is a mistake. A single star merely denotes "a very good restaurant in it's category." From the Michelin Guide site:
"For restaurants, Michelin stars are based on five criteria:
The quality of the products
The mastery of flavor and cooking
The "personality" of the cuisine
The value for the money
The consistency between visits
Michelin stars are awarded to restaurants offering the finest cooking, regardless of cuisine style. Stars represent only what is on the plate. They do not take into consideration interior decoration, service quality or table settings."
And the meaning of the stars?
* A very good restaurant in it's category
** Excellent cooking and worth a detour
*** Exceptional cuisine and worth the journey
Damned right. Congratulations Dressler!
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