Well, I seem to be on a roll here with Middle Eastern flatbreads. I enjoyed making lahmajouns so much that I decided to tackle another favorite-- flatbread with za'atar and olive oil.
Za'atar originates in the Middle East (I won't invite any controversy by claiming to know where), and can be loosely described as a mixture of herbs, including thyme, marjoram and oregano. The mixture is popular in Lebanon, Turkey, Morocco, Syria, Jordan, Israel and North Africa and within the Armenian diaspora.
There is a lot of debate about what za'atar actually is. Some claim that the word za'atar refers to local herbs belonging to the mint family, such as thyme, marjoram and oregano; some maintain that za'atar is simply a mixture of herbs and spices; while others swear that za'atar is a specific herb now in danger of extinction and illegal to harvest.
While many za'atar recipes call for sumac (red za'atar), the essentials of za'atar are the blended herbs (green za'atar). Whatever the blend, za'atar is used to spice meats and vegetables or mixed with olive oil to make a spread (baked on a dough base for the Middle-Eastern equivalent of a miniature pizza) and can also sprinkled on labneh (yogurt that has been drained until it becomes a tangy, creamy cheese).
I like it on bread and this is the recipe for za'atar I used (I didn't have sumac in the house and just skipped it and called it green za'atar):
Za'atar
2 teaspoons oregano
2 teaspoons basil
2 tablespoons ground thyme
1 teaspoon whole thyme
2 teaspoons savory
2 teaspoons ground marjoram
1/2 teaspoons whole dry marjoram
1-2 tablespoons sumac berries, crushed
1/4-1/2 cup unhulled, toasted sesame seeds, ground coarsely
1 teaspoon of salt (or to taste)
Grind or crush the sesame seeds first and then crush the sumac (separate from the sesame seeds). Then crush everything together with a pestle or the back of a spoon, or put it into a zipper plastic baggie, press out the air, seal, and roll over it with a rolling pin until the desired mix and texture is achieved. It should be a little coarse with the sesame seeds still recognizable-- so don't try to achieve a fine powder.
Flatbread with Za'atar
This recipe is from Mediterranean Street Food by Anissa Helou and makes a thicker, more pliable round of flatbread than the recipe I used for lahmajoun.
1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast mixed with 1/4 cup of tepid water
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour + more for kneading
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup water
3 tablespoons za'atar mixed with 1/4 - 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Combine the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Work the oil into the flour with your fingers, then add the yeast water and mix until the mixture begins to come together. Add another 1/4 cup water gradually, mixing with your hand until the mixture cleans the bowl and has come together into a slightly sticky dough. Knead briefly on a lightly floured surface, dusting with flour if needed, then cover with an inverted bowl and let rest 15 minutes.
Knead the dough, dusting with as little flour as possible, until it is smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Shape into a ball, cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Divide the dough into 4 equal portions and roll each into a ball. Cover with a towel and let rest 15 minutes.
Preheat a nonstick skillet over moderate heat. Preheat a broiler as well.
With a rolling pin, flatten a ball of dough into a round about 1/8-inch thick, flouring as needed. Dimple the dough with your fingertips to prevent the topping from running off during cooking. Transfer the round to the skillet and spread with a quarter of the za'atar and oil mixture. Cook until the bottom is crisp and lightly golden, about 3 minutes, then brown the surface under the broiler. Transfer to a rack. Repeat with the remaining dough. Serve hot or warm.
Note: this bread is really nice and I will be making it in larger batches without the topping (just flipping it right in the cast-iron skillet to brown both sides) to use throughout the week.





Excellent! You are single-handedly reviving my love for flatbreads. Have never seen sumac before in my life, though. Ditto for unhulled sesame seeds.
Posted by: Manggy | December 30, 2007 at 10:40 AM
This recipe really inspires me! I love anything flatbread but this has a category of it's own, it's a rockstar of flatbread!
On my TO DO list!
Happy New Year to you! :-)
Posted by: Zenchef | December 30, 2007 at 02:40 PM
The day you make onion kulcha is the day I track you down and move into your place! These look terrific.
(I'll reply to your e-mail tomorrow. I'm not ignoring you, I promise!)
Posted by: Karyn | December 30, 2007 at 07:59 PM
i am LOVING this armenian-food roll you are on...i can't wait to see what is next...mel :-)
Posted by: melinda kumar | December 30, 2007 at 09:36 PM
Manggy, this one is pretty irrestible. And the za'atar is easy to make. Who knew?!
Zenchef, if you make it let me know what you think. I still make your truffled toast with egg... and, man, it's favorite around here.
Karyn, I was actually going to make this "The Year of The Flatbread," so I see no reason why I shouldn't move on to naan very soon. You'll have to sleep on the couch, though. :-)
Mel, I'm not sure this one is Armenian-- and I don't want to set off a debate. :-) What I am sure of is that it's delicious!
Posted by: Ann | December 31, 2007 at 08:31 AM
this looks delicious..I just told Hartman(my husb) that tonight I feel like something pizzalike, something salty, but without all that cheese. I'm actually very ignorant when it comes to all these interesting flatbreads, well, actually...I'm quite ignorant about a lot of things, but I might just have a go at this za'atar bread.
Ronell
Posted by: myfrenchkitchen | January 01, 2008 at 12:05 PM
Ronell, it's surprisingly easy. Let me know what you think!
Posted by: Ann | January 02, 2008 at 12:19 PM
Dear Cooks
I was born in Egypt from a sefaradic family. My grand ma use to make Reghif ala reghif. Does anybody know the recipe? please help.
Posted by: massouda | March 25, 2008 at 11:50 AM
If you like za'atar bread and lachmagine and live in Brooklyn, you must come shopping on Kings Highway in Brooklyn (right off the F train). Pita Sababa bakery (Kings Highway and E 4 more or less) makes a great za'atar pita (come early, it disappears fast) and you can find all the fixings for lachmagine and other Syrian specialties in the groceries across the street and down the block. Enjoy.
Posted by: Barbara | May 26, 2008 at 09:55 AM
Love this dish eat it all the time!!!!
Posted by: ghuilh | February 15, 2009 at 08:57 AM
can you just bake it in the oven??
Posted by: felicia | August 19, 2010 at 01:11 PM