Honestly, people get so worked up over the right way to make Macaroni and Cheese you'd think it was a matter of national security or even Spaghetti Bolognese!
The folks at the SouthernLiving forum are undecided on whether or not eggs should be an ingredient. This group can't agree on whether macaroni and cheese is singular or plural. There was the Kraft vs. Annie's Organic Debate sparked by this Salon article.
And then there is the fundamental ongoing debate: white sauce vs. custard. Julia Moskin, in the New York Times, tackled the question with this article, arguing against the use of white sauce and advocating the use of noodles and cheese with just a little milk, accompanied by a recipe called Crusty Macaroni and Cheese. But Sara Dickerman, at Slate, was mystified by the recipe's popularity and did a couple of test-runs. She remained unconvinced. So do I.
I won't bore you with a long dissertation on the hotly debated methods for making mac and cheese. Briefly, there is the bechamel sauce approach, wherein the macaroni noodles are mixed with a white sauce combined with grated cheeses, and there's the custard approach, wherein the noodles are layered with grated cheeses and then a mixture of egg and milk is poured over it. Finally there is a hybrid approach attributed to John Thorne, which involves the custard approach, evaporated milk and stirring every five minutes.
Let me just say right now that I am in the non-stirring custard camp and proud if it. I use cheddar and gruyere cheese and I add onions to cut the richness of the dairy. I also toss the grated cheese with a little flour. I like that the noodles on top get chewy, that the inside resembles kugel and that the dish is a bit rustic. So when you come to my house you're getting it my way.
Macaroni and Cheese
1 lb macaroni
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups milk
salt, to taste
1 onion, chopped
2-1/2 cups grated cheddar and gruyere cheese
Start the water boiling and chop the onion. Grate the cheese and toss it with a little flour. When the water is boiling add the noodles. Butter a casserole dish. Whisk together the eggs and milk. Just before the pasta is ready you can toss the onions in to give them a quick blanch, if you like. When the noodles are ready, layer them with the cheese and onions, ending with a layer of cheese on top. Pour the egg/milk mixture over the noodles and cheese. Bake at 350 F for about 40 minutes or until the top is starting to brown and looks a bit crispy.
Yes, gruyere! Dig that rich nuttiness. Excellent, uncomplicated recipe, Ann! Happy New Year!
Posted by: Susan | January 03, 2008 at 07:21 AM
I've had it your way and I love it. Really folks, three of us sat at Ann's and nearly polished off a very large dish of the stuff. Even with the abundance before us we still managed to fight a bit over the crusty top. This is comfort food at its best...
Posted by: Lisa | January 03, 2008 at 07:30 AM
As mac & cheese is not really that popular here, I have only ever prepared it from a microwaveable thingy. The result is ok but not something I'd bother looking a better recipe for as I haven't developed any craving for it. But I have to say: that pic of yours looks soooo yummy, with the crunchy bits on top. I would add cayenne too just 'cause ;-)
Posted by: Manggy | January 03, 2008 at 08:10 AM
"So when you come to my house you're getting it my way."
As it should be!!
oh, that photo is scrumptious, especially coming in from 8-degrees-with-wind-chill-weather outside. my breakfast yogurt looks somewhat unappealing now.
Posted by: frenchtart | January 03, 2008 at 08:27 AM
Hmmm. I notice you didn't mention the macaroni and cheese Food & Wine baked in cupcake tins . . . intriguing only in that you would end up with a whole lot of crust.
Looks good! I'm glad to see at least one person's not dieting into the New Year (January = Official Comfort Carb on Carb with Fat Month). :)
Posted by: Karyn | January 03, 2008 at 11:40 AM
I didn't even know there was a debate - I just say everyone can make it how they like it!! I guess it's like the chili debate - beans or no beans...
I love gruyere in mac and cheese. This recipe sounds delicious!
Posted by: Deborah | January 03, 2008 at 11:42 AM
i will take whatever type of mac and cheese is in that photo, please!
i called my dad a few weeks ago and he told me he was making dinner. i asked what he was making, and he goes, "oh, we buy these boxes of all natural, organic, vegan macaroni and cheese." i was a little perplexed, "dad, if it's vegan it's not actually macaroni and *cheese*, you know that right?" :-)
this looks wonderful! gruyere is one of my abosolute favorites!
Posted by: sugarlaws | January 03, 2008 at 06:40 PM
Hmm... I've never had your preferred type of mac n', but I'd be willing to give it a try. And adding onion sounds fantastic!
Posted by: clumsy | January 03, 2008 at 08:45 PM
Wow this looks so very delicious. You have a lovely blog. :-)
Posted by: jeena | January 03, 2008 at 08:58 PM
Can I please come to your house? Amazing photo!
Posted by: JEP | January 03, 2008 at 09:01 PM
I've tried making mac and cheese in so many different ways, and I keep coming back to the recipe in my Betty Crocker cookbook that was the first I ever made. It's simply a cheese sauce tossed with pasta and then baked. Depending on my frame of mind I use different cheeses (Manchego mac and cheese is really good), but usually come back to ye old cheddar. I am somewhat enamored with the current trend to take mac and cheese to the next level with things like green chilies or truffles - but in the end, there's just nothing like simple cheese and pasta.
Posted by: Natanya | January 03, 2008 at 09:15 PM
Minus the onions, that one sounds perfect to me!!!
Posted by: Hillary | January 04, 2008 at 06:17 PM
No, please do tell us the full story! I eat this stuff up! (ohhh bad pun). Personally I am pro-egg. This style looks like the one my mom used to make and I think that childhood does shape our tastes in so many ways...mac and cheese and winter, such a great combination.
Posted by: Cakespy | January 04, 2008 at 11:29 PM
Susan, sometimes the least complicated dishes are the best. :-)
Lisa, well now you have the recipe... though I know you don't ever follow recipes.
Manggy, oh you really do need to experience proper mac and cheese. You'll no doubt want to try both methods, though. Let me know which you settle on.
frenchtart, I think every cook should adopt the "my way or the highway" philosophy. :-)
Karyn, Oh we're trying to cut down on the calories a bit... but we still allow ourselves those nights when we toss sensible eating out the window!
Deborah, I suspect there's a a debate out there about every well-known dish. :-)
Katy, I think it's really cute that your dad hasn't even noticed the lack of cheese in his mac and cheese!
clumsy, the onions do a very nice job of balancing out the richness of the cheeses...
jeena, thanks for dropping by!
JEP, let me know when you're in the neighborhood! :-)
Natanya, the simple way is so often the best way, isn't it? Nice to see a new visitor!
Hillary, thanks for visiting!
Jessie, interestingly, my Mom never made macaroni and cheese. But first time I ever made it was a very similar recipe and I have never really liked any other as much.
Posted by: Ann | January 05, 2008 at 01:42 PM
It looks yummy but I've got to be honest. I love mac & cheese any way it's cooked ... but I just don't love crunchy onions in it. Blanching them with the pasta, though, is something that hadn't occurred to me. I may have to try that.
Posted by: Tracy | January 05, 2008 at 03:55 PM
Who knew this was such a controversial dish! Heck, I haven't had this since I was a tot and I proudly made a box of Kraft mac'n'cheese all by myself (don't worry, thankfully I grew out of loving that stuff!) but I think I'll need to try all three methods to see which one my tastebuds like :)
Posted by: Ellie | January 06, 2008 at 06:52 AM
Absolutely beautiful! I'll have to try this soon. Thank you for the recipe!
Posted by: Sorina | January 07, 2008 at 11:47 AM