About three weeks ago I experimented with preserving kumquats using the same method I use for lemons. Every day I looked at my lovely jar full of kumquats, watching them get more and more translucent until I thought it might be time to test them out.
When you use preserved lemons you generally rinse them off before adding them to whatever you're cooking, and I was curious to know if this would be necessary for the kumquats. I rinsed one and tried it, and then popped another, unrinsed, into my mouth. I liked the unrinsed one best-- the extra saltiness contrasted really well with the sweetness of the rind.
I decided to try them out with a modified version of a fish tagine recipe Jack and I are very fond of. But as I was only cooking for the two of us, I thought I'd bake the fish en papillote. Success! The preserved kumquats imparted a lovely briny lemony-orange flavor to the dish without stealing the distinctive Moroccan flavor we love so much.
Sea Bass with Preserved Kumquat en Papillote
for two
2 sea bass fillets
1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tblsp minced fresh cilantro
1/8 cup olive oil
1 tsp sweet paprika
4 threads saffron, toasted and crushed
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 lemon
4 preserved kumquats, cut in half (they should already be nearly cut in half from the process of preserving them-- just finish the job and remove any pips)
6 cracked green olives
Thinly sliced onion and red pepper
Mix the parsley, cilantro, olive oil, paprika, saffron and ginger. Add the juice of half of the lemon. Place the fish fillets along with half of this mixture into a large zip lock bag and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours, turning the bag over now and then.
Preheat the oven to 450.
To assemble, place a marinated filet on a large rectangle of parchment paper, so that the length of the filet is centered along the length of the paper, and arrange the thin slices of onion and red pepper on top. Carefully balance the preserved kumquat halves and olives on top of the onion and pepper. Spoon a little of the marinade over the top. To create the package, bring the two long ends of the parchment rectangle together and fold the ends closed, getting very close to but not quite touching the fish. Tuck the remaining sides under the packet and place the whole thing on a baking sheet. Repeat for the other filet.
Bake for 10 minutes per inch (thick). I usually get nervous and add another 3 or 4 minutes to that.
To serve, place the packet on a plate and carefully (steam is hot!) tear it open.
If you find that the fish is not quite done, your microwave is your friend. Pop it in for 30 seconds, and check it. Give it another 15 seconds, if needed.






I can imagine you trying out the unrinsed kumquat-- next to the sink, of course, heh heh :)
I've never tried the Papillote method, even if Jamie Oliver swears by it. I must try it one of these days :)
Posted by: Manggy | March 02, 2008 at 08:40 AM
The kumquats would be perfect in this dish, looks great!
Posted by: brilynn | March 02, 2008 at 09:19 AM
I'd love to try this one day, it sounds wonderful. Consider this one starred!
Posted by: Pixie | March 02, 2008 at 10:03 AM
I love candied kumquats so I wonder what these taste like. Like preserved lemons? I'm curious... Fish cooked like this is the best too!
Posted by: Aran | March 02, 2008 at 11:13 AM
I love the presentation on this - would be fabulous for a dinner party. Delicious.
Posted by: giz | March 02, 2008 at 03:57 PM
Great colors, flavours and there's also fish. What could a girl want more? Gorgeous!
Posted by: Lore | March 02, 2008 at 05:04 PM
Oh, this looks lovely. I've eaten a chicken dish with similar ingredients, but not fish. I'll add it to my (ever-growing) list.
Posted by: Adele | March 02, 2008 at 09:37 PM
Oh Ann, this looks DELICIOUS! I can practically taste it. Have to save it til next time Mr. Cakespy the vegetarian is out of town so he doesn't whine.
Posted by: Cakespy | March 03, 2008 at 12:40 PM
Quite a thought-provoking visual, indeed.
One need not add extra oven cooking time, as there is more than ample (like me!) carry-over cooking time available.
You are actually "better safe than sorry" by taking it out of the oven and letting it steam for a bit longer rather than rish overcooking by leaving it at 450 longer.
Bon Appetit,
Chuck
Posted by: DocChuck | March 03, 2008 at 03:17 PM
This looks amazing! Please make this for me :-)
Posted by: Sophie | March 03, 2008 at 03:24 PM
that looks so great!!! i just made fish this weekend and reminded my 99% vegetarian self how much i love it! this sounds so flavorful and delicious.
Posted by: katy | March 03, 2008 at 05:01 PM
Looks great -- I've been meaning to try something en papillote for a while. But with kumquats! Never thought of it.
Posted by: Pieds Des Anges (Kyla) | March 03, 2008 at 10:04 PM
Manggy, you really must. :-)
brilynn, they really worked very well!
Pixie, if you do try it be sure to let me know what you think!
Ara, like milder preserved lemons with a slight orange taste. If that makes any sense... :-)
giz, I like that the parchment paper is brown... gave it a bit of a "brown paper packages tied up with string" vibe. :-)
Lore, the fish was pretty amazing. I went a little nuts and bought very, very good and expensive filets... but it was worth it!
Adele, check out the tagine recipe this was based on... really fabulous!
Jessie, it really is, if I do say so myself, a knock-out dish. I hope you get a chance to try it. :-)
DocChuck, fortunately it came out perfectly. :-)
Sophie, it's a promise!
katy, thanks! This one is a winner, for sure.
Kyla, long time, no see! Good to see you back again. en papilotte is such a nice way to get moist perfect fish...
Posted by: Ann | March 04, 2008 at 02:32 PM
Really nice combination of flavors. I love the whole Moroccan theme with a twist.
We really have to organize a dinner! :-)
I'll ask big bossman to remove my shackles one of these days!
Posted by: Zenchef | March 05, 2008 at 02:13 PM
Now this is an awesome sounding dish. I love the flavors in this. Simply gorgeous!
Posted by: Meeta | March 06, 2008 at 02:28 PM
This fish looks devine Ann. Gorgeous presentation too. (I have never tried kumquats - another fruit on the "to try" list.)
Posted by: Cakelaw | March 07, 2008 at 07:52 AM
Zenchef, it's a deal! :-)
Meeta, I have to admit it was pretty darned good. :-)
Cakelaw, thank you!
Posted by: Ann | March 07, 2008 at 09:27 AM