Scapes and 'shrooms

So, in an attempt to do my bit for the resistance against the intimidating onslaught of our CSA veggie bounty, I decided it should fall upon me to do something with the garlic scapes. I'd never even heard of garlic scapes until recently so I hadn't the first idea what to do with them. They looked a bit like spring onions that had been attacked by a crazed, curling-tong-wielding, veg-hating hairdresser. Thrusting that rather disturbing thought forcefully aside I did a bit of googling and came up with a very promising-sounding pasta dish - an adaptation of a recipe by Chef Dante Boccuzzi of Aureole, right here in New York. I made a few very minor adjustments to the recipe: obviously I scaled it down for two people rather than four, used about a half tablespoon of truffle oil (thanks Pasticerra!) instead of the truffle butter and I used a little more stock than Mr. Boccuzzi recommends. I also used crimini mushrooms (because that's what we had), and ziti instead of orzo. Other than that, I didn't mess with what turned out to be sheer pasta perfection.

Garlic Scape and Mushroom Pasta
serves 2

1 medium onion, diced
3 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper
6 ounces chicken stock
1/2 pound pasta (orecchietti or similar)
About 6 oz assorted mushrooms
3 garlic scapes (trim off the 'flower' at the end and chop the remainder into half-inch pieces)
1 tbsp butter
2 tbsp heavy cream, whisked until slightly thickened
1/2 tbsp truffle oil
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus shavings
A slack handful of arugula

Over low heat, gently cook the onion in half of the olive oil, until it's tender. Season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another pan. Add the pasta to the onions and mix thoroughly. Gradually add the stock to the pasta, cover and cook at a low simmer, Stir fairly frequently to make sure it cooks evenly. It takes about 15-20 minutes, but check it to be sure.

In a large skillet heat the remaining olive oil and sear the mushrooms and garlic scapes until golden brown. Add the butter and keep stirring until it browns a bit, then strain the mushrooms and scapes; set aside and keep warm.

Drizzle the truffle oil over the pasta, add the grated parmesan and the arugula. Give it a stir until the arugula just starts to wilt. Stir in the cream just before serving. Serve the pasta and top with the mushroom and scapes. Garnish with a few shavings of parmesan.

This method of cooking the pasta (absorption) was new to me. It involves using much less liquid than the old immerse-in-water-and-boil routine. The idea is to simmer slowly and let the flavours of the stock and other ingredients infuse the pasta. I have to say, it works. I gave the pasta almost twenty minutes, stirred it often, and it was not only beautifully al dente but also much tastier than pasta cooked in the normal way. As for those scapes, what a delightfully subtle flavour! The texture was somewhat like a more yielding asparagus but the taste... just a hint of garlic and a very slight saltiness which combined really well with the earthy mushrooms, the bitter arugula, the onion and the salty parmesan. And then the smooth (but not cloying) mouth feel provided by the butter, oil and cream made the whole effect a smooth, savoury joy.  Ann and I both agreed this dish was a major hit, and we shall be doing it for as long as the CSA keep giving us these delicious, curly little stalks of delight.

Comments

[Ann]

I will testify that it was really fabulous. We have more scapes this week and the dilemma is... do we try something new ot have this dish again?

[Zenchef]

"...Garlic scapes looked a bit like spring onions that had been attacked by a crazed, curling-tong-wielding, veg-hating hairdresser." Now that's a nice way to put it, i think i'm getting the visual. hahaha.

That's the new food trend. I see garlic scapes everywhere this days, on menus and magazines too. I like them a lot and that pasta looks so sophisticated. You know if you ever need a second opinion you can always send some food my way. :-)

[Manggy]

Wow! That dish looks really light and flavorful, Jack! I also read of the absorption technique of cooking from a recipe by Thomas Keller in Food & Wine. I've been dying to try it. Aren't you guys trying to avoid spending a long time in front of the stove, though?

I researched a little bit about garlic scapes. It turns out that only certain varieties produce them and they're seasonal too! Phooey. It looks like I will grow my own garlic and see what happens :P

[Lore]

I'm always up for a new pasta dish recipe and this looks perfect! I've only used garlic leaves and never the scapes.

[Lydia (The Perfect Pantry)]

Interesting way to cook the pasta. I've used that method occasionally, but out of sheer laziness! It does retain the starch in the pasta as a thickener, which is handy.

[Lori Lynn @ Taste With The Eyes]

Hi - I look forward to giving this method of cooking pasta a try. Makes sense that it would be more flavorful. Thanks for that and the introduction to scapes.

[yulinka]

Looks delish. I've never had garlic scapes. You're lucky to have such a wide selection at your farmer's market. The pickings are slim here til mid-July.

[dhanggit]

what a gorgeous pasta recipe! i love anything with garlic, although i havent tasted garlic scapes yet.;i could imagine how perfectly it will blend in this pasta dish! i'll need to remember this one!

[Johanna]

this does look delicious - I have seen recipe for absorption pasta and been v interested - would love to try this recipe if only I had truffle oil and garlic scapes - one to bookmark for that day!

[bonbon oiseau]

yesss to garlic scapes--this recipe looks great and love the pairing of mushrooms and scapes! Did you see last Wednesday's article on garlic scapes in the Food Section of the NY Times? Yesterday we made a beautiful white bean and garlic scape dip from there:
@ 3-4 scapes, cut up--in a food processor put the scapes, a tablespoon or more of lemon juice, a 1/2 tsp sea salt--pulse until scapes get mashed a bit and then add a can of white beans, cannelini (or great northern work well), pulse some more and then add a 1/4 cup olive oil slowly--we added a bit more lemon juice and s & p at the end to taste and drizzled with olive oil. (I actually added a little handful of fresh mint in the first part which was nice but not in the original recipe...so good)
We grilled some good bread, drizzled with more olive oil and ate the whole bowl in 10 minutes!

[grace]

garlic scapes, eh? i claim to be a foodie, but there are still so many things that elude me. thanks for bringing these little guys to my attention, and with such a great recipe!

[Bellini Valli]

We are so on the same page these last few days Ann...first strawberry shortcake and then scapes.The fellow at the framers market gave me a double dose!!! This weekend I made garlic scape pesto, soup and sauteed.

[Jack]

Ann - well, I'd be happy to have it again, but I'm thinking you're leaning more towards scape pesto... which is fine!

Zenchef - yes, scapes seem to be the thing right now. I'd be happy to send some nosh your way, but I don't think this one would have traveled very well! Now if you ever have some leftovers from your fabulous creations... you have our address, right? :-)

Manggy - Ann's trying to stay away from the stove but I'm made of tougher stuff... probably :-).

Lore - give 'em a try. They certainly complemented the mushrooms well in this recipe.

Lydia, Lori Lynn - I plan to try the absorption method again with one of my more strongly flavoured pastas. I liked the way the taste infused the noodles as well as being around them.

yulinka - yes, we feel pretty lucky, what with the farmers market and the CSA pick-up. We're certainly getting plenty of fibre and vitamin C at the moment!

dhanggit - they only taste very subtly of garlic so you can use plenty.

Johanna - you don't absolutely need truffle oil or butter. I think this would taste good with just the straight mushroom flavour. The truffle oil was just an optional extra, really.

bonbon oiseau - thanks for the recipe - sounds good!

grace - yes, they were new to me until a couple of weeks ago. Now I see them everywhere!

Bellini Valli - We're planning to make pesto with our scapes this week.

[MyKitchenInHalfCups]

I guess if I keep looking one day I'll come up with some scapes until then I have to lick my screen here. Looks so good.

[Ben]

Thanks for the recipe! We tried it with whole wheat penne and it was really good.