Well it's been hot and sticky here in Brooklyn and by the time I finished my latest Daring Bakers challenge I was hot, sticky and covered in chocolate ganache. But I was also happy because our challenge this month, hosted by Chris of Mele Cotte, was to make a hazelnut gateau from the book Great Cakes by Carol Walter.
What a great boozey cake! Layers of hazelnut genoise coated with rum sugar syrup and then filled with the most fabulous praline buttercream (containing both rum and Grand Marnier!). Sounds decadent already, right? But there's more! The assembled layers are sealed with an apricot glaze and then coated with shiny dark chocolate ganache, which contains more Grand Marnier!
I admit the extremely hot weather caused me to keep putting off getting this baby made... but I finally decided to jump in. I followed the recipe exactly, with three small changes: I used two 7 inch pans (whole genoise recipe) and then split each layer in two, resulting in a four layer cake; I did not use any whipped cream between the layers, as I felt the buttercream (and syrup and preserves and ganache!) were enough; and I used a different recipe for Swiss Buttercream (Carol Walters recipe was too fussy for me).
I like to taste a cake as it is intended before I make variations and I'm really glad I did with this one, as I loved the orange and rum flavors with the hazelnut. That praline butter cream is effing fabulous!
I broke the process up into two days worth of steps: making the genoise, syrup and buttercream, and then assembling the layers up to the point of sealing them with the apricot preserves on the first day and then wrapping the assembled cake in plastic and popping it in the refrigerator to chill. The next day I made the ganache, coated the cake and then piped out some frou frous with more buttercream.
I had a vision for my finish, that involved very detailed and ornate piped scrolls and leaves, but unfortunately it didn't work out. I could see the effect I wanted in my head, and I was able to draw it on paper, but the force was not with me. In fact, I'd say the force was entirely against me, as the kitchen was very warm, the buttercream was very soft and getting softer with every second, and my hand was not steady. The saddest part is that once I made the first scroll I was committed. There was no scraping the buttercream off the ganache and starting over with simple piped shells (I am the champion of shells!). Poor Jack had to listen to me swear and mutter for an hour.
Still, when we ate the first piece we were impressed. The complex layering of the flavors together really worked! Great challenge, Chris! You can click the link to see the recipe.
Filbert Gateau with Praline Buttercream
From Great Cakes by Carol Walter
1 Filbert Genoise
1 recipe sugar syrup, flavored with dark rum
1 recipe Praline Buttercream
½ cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 recipe Apricot Glaze
1 recipe Ganache Glaze, prepared just before using
3 tablespoons filberts, toasted and coarsely chopped
Filbert Genoise
Because of the amount of nuts in the recipe, this preparation is different from a classic genoise.
1 ½ cups hazelnuts, toasted/skinned
2/3 cup cake flour, unsifted
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
7 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar, divided ¼ & ¾ cups
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. grated lemon rind
5 lg. egg whites
¼ cup warm, clarified butter (100 – 110 degrees)
Position rack in the lower 3rd of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 10” X 2” inch round cake pan.
Using a food processor, process nuts, cake flour, and cornstarch for about 30 seconds. Then, pulse the mixture about 10 times to get a fine, powdery mixture. You’ll know the nuts are ready when they begin to gather together around the sides of the bowl. While you want to make sure there aren’t any large pieces, don’t over-process. Set aside.
Put the yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, and beat until thick and light in color, about 3-4 minutes on med-high speed. Slowly, add ¾ cup of sugar. It is best to do so by adding a tablespoon at a time, taking about 3 minutes for this step. When finished, the mixture should be ribbony. Blend in the vanilla and grated lemon rind. Remove and set aside.
Place egg whites in a large, clean bowl of the electric mixer with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed, until soft peaks. Increase to med-high speed and slowly add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, over 15-20 seconds or so. Continue to beat for another ½ minute.
Add the yolk mixture to the whites and whisk for 1 minute.
Pour the warm butter in a liquid measure cup (or a spouted container). * It must be a deep bottom bowl and work must be fast.* Put the nut meal in a mesh strainer (or use your hand – working quickly) and sprinkle it in about 2 tablespoons at a time – folding it carefully for about 40 folds. Be sure to exclude any large chunks/pieces of nuts. Again, work quickly and carefully as to not deflate the mixture. When all but about 2 Tbsp. of nut meal remain, quickly and steadily pour the warm butter over the batter. Then, with the remaining nut meal, fold the batter to incorporate, about 13 or so folds.
With a rubber spatula, transfer the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the surface with the spatula or back of a spoon. **If collected butter remains at the bottom of the bowl, do not add it to the batter! It will impede the cake rising while baking.
Tap the pan on the counter to remove air bubbles and bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes. You’ll know the cake is done when it is springy to the touch and it separates itself from the side of the pan. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Invert onto a cake rack sprayed with nonstick coating, removing the pan. Cool the cake completely.
*If not using the cake right away, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap, then in a plastic bag, then in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If freezing, wrap in foil, then the bag and use within 2-3 months.
Sugar Syrup
Makes 1 cup, good for one 10-inch cake – split into 3 layers
1 cup water
¼ cup sugar
2 Tbsp. dark rum or orange flavored liqueur
In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the liqueur. Cool slightly before using on the cake. *Can be made in advance.
Praline Buttercream
1 recipe Swiss Buttercream
1/3 cup praline paste
1 ½ - 2 Tbsp. Jamaican rum (optional)
Blend ½ cup buttercream into the paste, then add to the remaining buttercream. Whip briefly on med-low speed to combine. Blend in rum.
Swiss Buttercream
4 lg. egg whites
¾ cup sugar
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly firm
1 ½ -2 Tbsp. Grand Marnier or liqueur of your choice
1 tsp. vanilla
Place the egg whites in a lg/ bowl of a elevtric mixer and beat with the whisk attachment until the whites are foamy and they begin to thicken (just before the soft peak stage). Set the bowl over a saucepan filled with about 2 inches of simmering water, making sure the bowl is not touching the water. Then, whisk in the sugar by adding 1-2 tablespoon of sugar at a time over a minutes time. Continue beating 2-3 minutes or until the whites are warm (about 120 degrees) and the sugar is dissolved. The mixture should look thick and like whipped marshmallows.
Remove from pan and with either the paddle or whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and sugar on med-high until its a thick, cool meringue – about 5-7 minutes. *Do not overbeat*. Set aside.
Place the butter in a separate clean mixing bowl and, using the paddle attachment, cream the butter at medium speed for 40-60 seconds, or until smooth and creamy. *Do not overbeat or the butter will become toooooo soft.*
On med-low speed, blend the meringue into the butter, about 1-2 Tbsp. at a time, over 1 minute. Add the liqueur and vanilla and mix for 30-45 seconds longer, until thick and creamy.
Refrigerate 10-15 minutes before using.
Wait! My buttercream won’t come together! Reheat the buttercream briefly over simmering water for about 5 seconds, stirring with a wooden spoon. Be careful and do not overbeat. The mixture will look broken with some liquid at the bottom of the bowl. Return the bowl to the mixer and whip on medium speed just until the cream comes back together.
Wait! My buttercream is too soft! Chill the buttercream in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes and rewhip. If that doesn’t work, cream an additional 2-4 Tbsp. of butter in a small bowl– making sure the butter is not as soft as the original amount, so make sure is cool and smooth. On low speed, quickly add the creamed butter to the buttercream, 1 Tbsp. at a time.
Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days, or can be frozen for up to 6 months. If freezing, store in 2 16-oz. plastic containers and thaw in the refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for several hours.
Praline Paste
1 cup (4 ½ oz.) Hazelnuts, toasted/skinless
2/3 cup Sugar
Line a jelly roll pan with parchment and lightly butter.
Put the sugar in a heavy 10-inch skillet. Heat on low flame for about 10-20 min until the sugar melts around the edges. Do not stir the sugar. Swirl the pan if necessary to prevent the melted sugar from burning. Brush the sides of the pan with water to remove sugar crystals. If the sugar in the center does not melt, stir briefly. When the sugar is completely melted and caramel in color, remove from heat. Stir in the nuts with a wooden spoon and separate the clusters. Return to low heat and stir to coat the nuts on all sides. Cook until the mixture starts to bubble. **Remember – extremely hot mixture.** Then onto the parchment lined sheet and spread as evenly as possible. As it cools, it will harden into brittle. Break the candied nuts into pieces and place them in the food processor. Pulse into a medium-fine crunch or process until the brittle turns into a powder. To make paste, process for several minutes. Store in an airtight container and store in a cook dry place. Do not refrigerate.
Apricot Glaze
Good for one 10-inch cake
2/3 cup thick apricot preserves
1 Tbsp. water
In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and preserves to a slow boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. If the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the saucepan, add water as needed.
Remove from heat and, using a strainer, press the mixture through the mesh and discard any remnants. With a pastry brush, apply the glaze onto the cake while the cake is still warm. If the glaze is too thick, thin to a preferred consistency with drops of water.
Ganache Glaze
Makes about 1 cup, enough to cover the top and sides of a 9 or 10 inch layer or tube cake
6 oz. (good) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, like Lindt
6 oz. (¾ cup heavy cream
1 tbsp. light corn syrup
1 Tbsp. Grand Marnier, Cointreay, or dark Jamaican rum (optional)
¾ tsp. vanilla
½ - 1 tsp. hot water, if needed
Blend vanilla and liqueur/rum together and set aside.
Break the chocolate into 1-inch pieces and place in the basket of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer into a medium sized bowl and set aside.
Heat the cream and corn syrup in a saucepan, on low, until it reached a gentle boil. Once to the gently boil, immediately and carefully pour over the chocolate. Leave it alone for one minute, then slowly stir and mix the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the cream. Carefully blend in vanilla mixture. If the surface seems oily, add ½ - 1 tsp hot water. The glaze will thicken, but should still be pourable. If it doesn’t thicken, refrigerate for about 5 minutes, but make sure it doesn’t get too cold!
Assembling Cake
Cut a cardboard disk slightly smaller than the cake. Divide the cake into 3 layers and place the first layer top-side down on the disk. Using a pastry brush, moisten the layer with 3-4 Tbsp. of warm sugar syrup. Measure out 1 cup of praline buttercream and set aside.
Spread the bottom layer with a ¼-inch thickness of the remaining buttercream. Cover with ½ of the whipped cream, leaving ¼-inch border around the edge of the cake. Place the middle layer over the first, brush with sugar syrup, spreading with buttercream. Cover with the remaining whipped cream.
Moisten the cut side of the third layer with additional sugar syrup and place cut side down on the cake. Gently, press the sides of the cake to align the layers. Refrigerate to chill for at least 30 minutes.
Lift the cake by sliding your palm under the cardboard. Holding a serrated or very sharp night with an 8-ich blade held parallel to the sides of the cake, trim the sides so that they are perfectly straight. Cut a slight bevel at the top to help the glaze drip over the edge. Brush the top and sides of the cake with warm apricot glaze, sealing the cut areas completely. Chill while you prepare the ganache.
Place a rack over a large shallow pan to catch the ganache drippings. Remove the gateau from the refrigerator and put it the rack. With a metal spatula in hand, and holding the saucepan about 10 inches above the cake, pour the ganache onto the cake’s center. Move the spatula over the top of the ganache about 4 times to get a smooth and mirror-like appearance. The ganache should cover the top and run down the sides of the cake. When the ganache has been poured and is coating the cake, lift one side of the rack and bang it once on the counter to help spread the ganache evenly and break any air bubbles. (Work fast before setting starts.) Patch any bare spots on the sides with a smaller spatula, but do not touch the top after the “bang”. Let the cake stand at least 15 minutes to set after glazing.
To garnish the cake, fit a 12 – 14-inch pastry bag with a #114 large leaf tip. Fill the bag with the reserved praline cream. Stating ½ inch from the outer edge of the cake, position the pastry tube at a 90 degree angle with the top almost touching the top of the cake. Apply pressure to the pastry bag, moving it slightly toward the center of the cake. As the buttercream flows on the cake, reverse the movement backward toward the edge of the cake and finish by pulling the bag again to the center. Stop applying pressure and press the bag downward, then quickly pull the tip up to break the flow of frosting. Repeat, making 12 leaves evenly spaced around the surface of the cake.
Make a second row of leaves on the top of the first row, moving the pastry bag about ¾ inch closer to the center. The leaves should overlap. Make a 3rd row, moving closer and closer to the center. Add a 4th row if you have the room. But, leave a 2-inch space in the center for a chopped filbert garnish. Refrigerate uncovered for 3-4 hours to allow the cake to set. Remove the cake from the refrigerator at least 3 hours before serving.
Leftover cake can be covered with foil and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Your scroll work is so stunning, seriously - beautiful work. And the cake looks absolutely delicious. Very, very nicely done!
Posted by: marika @ madcap cupcake | July 30, 2008 at 11:26 AM
oh my lord, that is gorgeous. you did such an amazing job!! i envy your skills. it looks fantastic!
Posted by: frenchtart | July 30, 2008 at 11:36 AM
I just love your piping decorations. Great job and beautiful cake!
Posted by: sandra avital | July 30, 2008 at 11:41 AM
Your piping is amazing! I would have never though you had any issues with it. you should have heard the swearing over here when I tried to do mine.
Posted by: kat | July 30, 2008 at 11:45 AM
You made me laugh - love the frou frous. I usually use that term to describe my dogs. It must be tough for you when we all expect total perfection and you just never let us down. Your cake is amazing. I sympathize with the heat thing - the buttercream was great but couldn't leave it out for long periods of time as it would start going soft. Loved this challenge and the end result was entirely satisfying.
Posted by: giz | July 30, 2008 at 12:13 PM
holy shit. i mean, wow.
that's a ton of work...
i could never do it
it's beautiful
Posted by: claudia (cook eat FRET) | July 30, 2008 at 12:14 PM
Add my voice to the chorus - your piping is stunning.
Posted by: Hexe | July 30, 2008 at 12:27 PM
Looks perfect Anne, simply love love the decoration!
Posted by: Namratha | July 30, 2008 at 12:35 PM
Great write up and STUNNING cake. You are a piping queen.
Posted by: maybelles mom (feeding maybelle) | July 30, 2008 at 12:48 PM
Maybe it didn't match the patterns you had in mind,Ann, but your piping looks beautiful to me.
Btw, I actually scraped off my first attempt at piping and tried to cover it up with some more!
Posted by: Aparna | July 30, 2008 at 01:01 PM
Are you kidding me? You are kidding me. I think your cake is beautiful. I couldn't pipe anything nearly that lovely. Great job and wow - a four layer cake! It's a work of art.
Posted by: Jen Yu | July 30, 2008 at 01:03 PM
Oh my gosh that's gorgeous!! The piping work is exquisite!
Posted by: Laurie | July 30, 2008 at 01:07 PM
Oh wow! Congratulations, that cake looks amazing. I've read so many horror stories concerning this cake, but you did a great job :)
Posted by: Ben | July 30, 2008 at 01:14 PM
Great piping! That takes some nerves of steel. I loved the boozy cake too, I think I could have pushed it a little more in that direction without ill effects!
Posted by: Speedbump Kitchen | July 30, 2008 at 01:19 PM
I love the scroll work you did - it give the cake the elegant finish it deserves!
Posted by: Amelia | July 30, 2008 at 01:22 PM
I am SO impressed with your buttercream decorations on this cake! They look very artistic and elegant :) Great job!
Posted by: Mary | July 30, 2008 at 01:35 PM
What do you mean it didn't work out? Okay so it doesn't have leaves, big deal! This is one of the most beautiful finishing patterns I've ever seen!
Posted by: Lore | July 30, 2008 at 01:40 PM
Your cake looks wonderful! I love the dainty decorations! Very well done!
Cheers,
Rosa
Posted by: Rosa | July 30, 2008 at 01:44 PM
Great job¡¡¡ Congrats¡¡¡¡
Posted by: TERESA | July 30, 2008 at 01:58 PM
I love your piping!! That looks really elegant! I had the same issues with my piping..it was so hot and humid my buttercream just started oozing.
Posted by: Tiffany | July 30, 2008 at 02:19 PM
Oh, the piping looks lovely! I used the buttercream ingredients, but did a different technique. I agree -- the instructions were crazy. And, even though I used the amount of rum requested, I could barely taste it. Maybe I should have doubled the amount?
Posted by: Judy (Judy's Gross Eats) | July 30, 2008 at 02:59 PM
I love the decorations on your cake! Congrats on the challenge!
Posted by: Judy | July 30, 2008 at 03:00 PM
you did a *beautiful* job with your piping!
Posted by: prettytastycakes | July 30, 2008 at 03:16 PM
You made a beautiful cake! I love the scroll work.
Posted by: Anjanette | July 30, 2008 at 03:16 PM
Beautiful! Whether or not it matched your vision, your decorating is great. But I truly understand that feeling. I also had wonderful visions of my mirror finish ganache with a simple, elegant piping of buttercream with artfully placed almond slivers. Needless to say, the reality did not quite match. Beautiful cake Ann!
Posted by: Brake for Bread | July 30, 2008 at 03:21 PM