redacted recipes

Lamb Briouats

Briouat means "small letter" in Arabic and are little folded filo pastries filled with various kinds of meat for a savory dish or with ground nuts and honey for a baklava-like dessert. Last night I was casting about for something to make for dinner and remembered that I had ground lamb in the freezer, as well as a box of filo dough. A little googling found several recipes, which I then ruthlessly modified to suit the state of my pantry. None of the recipes called for raisins, but I thought they'd provide a nice tagine-like flavor.

I served these with some homemade harrisa, and a quick tzatziki, as well as a simple green salad. In theory there should have been enough for four people, and perhaps there would have been if we weren't so greedy. It was very hard to stop eating them.

Lamb Briouats
makes about 12 - 15 filo triangles

1/2 pound lean ground lamb
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup raisins, plumped in hot water
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
1 small can diced tomato
salt and papper, to taste

Combine the lamb, onion, garlic, cumin, ginger, paprika, cinnamon, raisins (drained), pine nuts, mint and tomatoes in a frying pan and cook over a medium heat, uncovered and stirring occasionally for about 6 minutes, or until the moisture has completely evaporated and the lamb has cooked.Drain off and discard the fat, if needed.

Preheat the oven to 375F.

Cut 3 inch wide strips of filo. Brush 1 strip with melted butter and place another one on top. Brush with the butter and place a heaped teaspoon of filling at one end. Fold one corner over in a triangle, and then continue turning over the triangle to the end of the filo strip (just as in folding a flag). Trim any extra filo off with a knife. Repeat with the remaining filo and filling.

Place on a greased baking sheet and bake for about 15 - 20 minutes, until golden. Serve immediately, warm or at room temperature.

Cleaning Out The Vegetable Crisper: Soup

I don't know about the rest of you, but my biggest challenge is in making sure the contents of my vegetable crisper don't turn into something terrible when I'm not paying attention. This is very much an out of sight, out of mind issue. I never have a problem with onions, potatoes, lemons, etc., because I keep them in a big bowl on my counter and I can see them. But the drawer at the bottom of my fridge...? Well. I hate to think about the limp carrots and liquifying greens I've neglected.

I do try. If I were perfect I would inventory every single day and base my meal plans on what's about to go off. But sometimes I get busy or find myself seduced by a recipe which requires NONE of the produce I have on hand, or I say the hell with it and go out to dinner. Or I just plain forget to look, I admit it. It's too bad, because it's quite satisfying to make something out of expediency. It makes me feel thrifty and smart and responsible.

In my latest crisper excavation I found a head a of escarole, some carrots, half an onion, some tired-looking cilantro and parsley and a few jalapenos. Sounded like soup to me. And not just any soup... but a variation on Moroccan Chickpea Soup. This is such an easy recipe-- and really satisfying. It's colorful, rustic and very hearty .The heat from the chili will clear your sinuses, too. The original version has no tomatoes in it and calls for cooking dried garbanzo beans (I cheat and use canned). The addition of escarole was perfect (chop it and add it about 15 minutes before you're ready to eat), though I did leave out the carrots (must do something with those carrots soon!).

Moroccan Chickpea Soup
serves 6 - 8

2 cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed 
8  cups water 
1  tablespoon olive oil 
2  cups onions, chopped 
1 large can chopped tomatoes, drained 
8  garlic cloves, minced 
1  small hot pepper, chopped finely 
1/2  cup fresh coriander, leaf chopped finely 
1/2  cup fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped finely 
2  teaspoons salt 
1  teaspoon fresh black pepper 
1  lemon, juiced 
1  teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon  cumin
1  teaspoon ground turmeric

In a soup pot heat the oil and saute the onions, garlic, and hot pepper until they are very slightly browned.

Add the water or chicken stock, the chickpeas and the rest of the ingredients. Let it come to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Let it simmer for a while-- no more than an hour to avoid mushy chickpeas.

This is really low calorie-- a single serving (assuming you use water and not chicken broth) is under 200 calories.

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Preserved Kumquat Update: Fish en Papillote

About three weeks ago I experimented with preserving kumquats using the same method I use for lemons. Every day I looked at my lovely jar full of kumquats, watching them get more and more translucent until I thought it might be time to test them out.

When you use preserved lemons you generally rinse them off before adding them to whatever you're cooking, and I was curious to know if this would be necessary for the kumquats. I rinsed one and tried it, and then popped another, unrinsed, into my mouth. I liked the unrinsed one best-- the extra saltiness contrasted really well with the sweetness of the rind.

I decided to try them out with a modified version of a fish tagine recipe Jack and I are very fond of. But as I was only cooking for the two of us, I thought I'd bake the fish en papillote. Success! The preserved kumquats imparted a lovely briny lemony-orange flavor to the dish without stealing the distinctive Moroccan flavor we love so much.

Sea Bass with Preserved Kumquat en Papillote
for two

2 sea bass fillets
1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tblsp minced fresh cilantro
1/8 cup olive oil
1 tsp sweet paprika
4 threads saffron, toasted and crushed
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 lemon
4 preserved kumquats, cut in half (they should already be nearly cut in half from the process of preserving them-- just finish the job and remove any pips)
6 cracked green olives
Thinly sliced onion and red pepper

Mix the parsley, cilantro, olive oil, paprika, saffron and ginger. Add the juice of half of the lemon. Place the fish fillets along with half of this mixture into a large zip lock bag and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours, turning the bag over now and then.

Preheat the oven to 450.

To assemble, place a marinated filet on a large rectangle of parchment paper, so that the length of the filet is centered along the length of the paper, and arrange the thin slices of onion and red pepper on top. Carefully balance the preserved kumquat halves and olives on top of the onion and pepper. Spoon a little of the marinade over the top. To create the package, bring the two long ends of the parchment rectangle together and fold the ends closed, getting very close to but not quite touching the fish. Tuck the remaining sides under the packet and place the whole thing on a baking sheet. Repeat for the other filet.

Bake for 10  minutes per inch (thick). I usually get nervous and add another 3 or 4 minutes to that.

To serve, place the packet on a plate and carefully (steam is hot!) tear it open.

If you find that the fish is not quite done, your microwave is your friend. Pop it in for 30 seconds, and check it. Give it another 15 seconds, if needed.

Red Snapper with Charmoula Marinade

I love cooking a whole fish. It's more visually pleasing (not that you can actually see the red snapper here-- I pretty much smothered it with various vegetables) and I think the flavor is always better.

Snapper with Charmoula
from Modern Moroccan
serves 4

2-3 lb whole red snapper, cleaned and scaled
1 cup Charmoula Marinade
2 stalks celery, sliced in 3 inch lengths
2 small tomatoes, sliced
1 small red onion, sliced into rings
1 green bell pepper, seeded and sliced into rings
2 T preserved lemon pulp
1/2 fresh lemon, sliced thinly
12 green olives

Score cuts into the thickest part of the fish and rub the marinade all over it, inside and out. Reserve the leftover marinade. Cover the fish and let sit in the refrigerator 1 - 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 450 F. Place the celery lengths into the bottom of a baking dish and lay the fish on top of them. Spread the preserved lemon puld over the fish. Arrange the tomato, onion, bell pepper, lemon slices and olives on top.

Pour half of the remianing marinade over the fish and cover tightly with foil. Place in the oven and cook for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 300F, remove the foil, and roast for another 15 - 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Serve with the rest of the charmoula marinade, Moroccan Tomato Salsa and Harissa.

Harrisa

Harissa is a North African staple, originating in Tunisia, where it's a staple ingredient to nearly every dish. In Morocco it's usually served on the side, allowing for individual tastes. I tend to use it as a condiment, rather than an ingrediant.

Harissa is often made with chili peppers, garlic, olive oil and a variety of spices such as cumin, coriander and even caraway. Some versions also contain tomatoes. I prefer a more basic Harissa, limited to chilies, garlic, salt, cumin and olive oil. It can be as mild or hot as you likie, depending on the types of chilies you select. This recipe is definitely hot.

12 dried guajillo or ancho chilies
3 dried habaneros
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
oil for topping

Open and remove the seeds from the chilies. Please wear rubber gloves! Cut or tear the chilies into small pieces and place in a bowl. Cover the cilies with hot water and let soak about half an hour.

Whir the garlic in a food processor until finely minced. Put your gloves back on and squeeze the water from the chilies, placing them in a food processor as you go. Add the reamianing ingredients and process until smooth. transfer to a clean container and cover with a thin layer of oil.

Charmoula Marinade

Not traditional charmoula, this recipe makes a wonderful marinade for fish. It's also quite nice served as a condiment, along with harissa.

Charmoula Marinade
from Modern Moroccan
Makes about 3 cups

1 T dried crushed chili
1 T sweet paprika
1 t chopped fresh ginger
1/2 t saffron threads
2 onions
2 bay leaves
1 T ground cumin
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 T chopped flat leaf parsley
2 T chopped cilantro
1/2 preserved lemon, sliced thinly
1/2 cup olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon

Mix all ingredients together thoroughly and let sit for half an hour prior to use. Can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 7 days.

Fish Tagine

This is the tagine I have made most often. You really must have preserved lemon on hand, but you can buy it (our local Whole Foods usually has some) if you don't want to make it-- or if you've started a batch and are waiting for it to be ready. We made a mixed grain salad to accompany the tagine instead of couscous.

Tagine Bil Hoot (Fish Tagine)
adapted from Kitty Morse's recipe in Cooking at the Kasbah
serves 4

1.4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tblsp minced fresh cilantro
1/8 cup olive oil
2 tsp sweet paprika
8 threads saffron, toasted and crushed
1 tsp ground ginger
1 lemon
4 6-oz fish fillets (any firm-fleshed fish is fine)
4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp ground cumin
salt and pepper, to taste
3 carrots, peeled and sliced diagonally
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 tblsp preserved lemon pulp
12 green olives (preserved green cracked olives are fabulous, if you can find them)
Fresh parsley or cilantro leaves to garnish

Immerse your tagine, if you're using one, in cold water for at least an hour before use. You can also make this in a dutch oven or enameled pot.

Mix the parsley, cilantro, olive oil, paprika, saffron and ginger. Add the juice of half of the lemon. Place the fish fillets along with half of this mixture into a large ziplock bag and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours, turning the bag over now and then. Cut the other half of the lemon into thin slices and reserve for later.

In a large saucepan combine the tomatoes, garlic and cumin and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens--about 10 minutes. Season with salt and papper. Set aside.

Place the carrot slices in a single layer in the bottom of the tagine. Cover with onions and spoon tomato sauce over the onions. Place a heat diffuser over your burner and the tagine on top of it, setting the burner to low-medium. Cover and cook until the carrots are tender, 15 - 20 minutes. Set the fish on top of the vegetables. Spread a little of the preserved lemon pulp over each fillet and top each with a lemon slice. Add the reserved marinade. Surround the fish with olives. Cover and cook over medium heat until the fish is flaky., about 10 - 12 minutes. Garnish with parsley or cilantro and serve.

Per Serving: 390 cal, 34 g pro, 25 g carb, 18 g fat, 3 g sat. fat, 7 g fiber

Preserved Lemons

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If you're making Moroccan food,  you'll want to jar-up some preserved lemons. This requires some patience, but it's worth it! Preserved lemons add fantastic flavor to all sorts of dishes-- from tagines to salads and even savory pastries. They're very easy to put together--the requirement for patience is in the waiting, as they must sit for four to six weeks.

L'Hamb Markad (Preserved Lemons)
from Kitty Morse's recipe in Cooking at the Kasbah
Makes 1 quart

12 or more lemons-- preferably organic Meyers--scrubbed
Sea salt
Fresh lemon juice, as needed

Pat the lemons dry and cut a thin dine-sized piece from both ends of each lemon. Set a lemon on one end and make a vertical cut 3/4 of the way through, leaving the two halves attached at the base. Turn the lemon over and make a second vertical cut at a 90-degree angle to the first, again 3/4 of the way through. Fill each cut with as much salt as it will hold. Place the lemon into the bottom of a sterilized wide-mouth quart glass jar. Repeat with remaining lemons, compressing them into the jar until no space is left and the juice rises to the top. Add fresh lemon juice, if needed, to cover the fruit. Seal and set aside. Do not refrigerate.

More lemons can be added in the following days as the rinds begin to soften. Make sure the lemons are covered with juice at all times--adding more, if needed.

The lemons are ready to use when the rinds are tender, in about 4 to 6 weeks. Refrigerate after opening. Preserved lemons will last up to 6 months in the refrigerator.

To use them, rinse them lightly and discard the seeds.

Note: Sometimes mold will form on the rind if contact with air is made. Remove the mold with a clean utensil and make sure the lemons are always covered with juice.

Tagine!

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.I've been using my lovely tagine ever since Jack gave it to me last Christmas. We both love Moroccan food and have been talking about learning to cook it for years. For those of you unfamiliar with the term tagine, it's both a cooking pot and a traditional Moroccan meal. The cooking pot is an earthenware vessel--sometimes glazed and sometimes not--with a conical lid. In Morocco tagines are traditionally placed over a brazier containing hot coals and the food inside is braised, rather than sauted or fried. The  meal is a sort of stew--though there are hundreds of variations. The eG forums have an excellent thread describing all tihngs tagine-related and is a great place to get started.

If you don't have a tagine, don't despair. You can use a dutch oven.

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Tagine Bil Kok (Lamb and Prunes)
adapted from Kitty Morse's recipe in Cooking at the Kasbah
serves 4

2 tblsp olive oil
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground ginger
1 1/2 pounds legs of lamb, trimmed of fat and cut into 2-inch chunks
2 onions
3 carrots, cut diagonally
1 cup chicken broth
8 threads saffron, toasted and crushed
15 cilantro springs, tied together
1 cup pitted prunes
2 tblsp honey
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp black pepper
salt to taste
1 zucchini, cut in half lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch pieces

Immerse the tagine bottom in water (I use the kitchen sink) for at least one hour before starting your tagine.

Place the prepped tagine on a heat diffuser over low to medium heat and braise the olive oli, turmeric, ginger, and lamb for 2 to 3 minutes. Finely dice one of the onions and add it to the meat along with the broth, saffron, cilantro and carrots. Cover and reduce heat. Cook for about an hour.

Finely slice the remaining onion. Add it, along with the prunes, honey, cinnamon and pepper. Season with salt to taste, and cook another half hour, or until the meat is tender.

Add the zucchini and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the zucchini is to your liking.

In Morocco Tagines are often served with warm bread. We like it with couscous or mixed grains.